Thought I would jump in and prove my ignorance. From what I'm seeing, I would say that those cracks are related to stress in the wood being relieved. My inclination would be to rip the table at the cracks, re-glue, and refinish. This makes for an easy razor cleanup before glue totally has hardened. Alcohol will usually take away most epoxies if it has not hardened. I have joints repaired this way that have been unbroken for over 30 years. Use a zip lock bag, add powder die for color (not uncommon to use a slight color variance on purpose then add two part epoxy, mix in bag, snip end and apply. Suck glue into joint with shop vacuum. If the cracks are at a glue line, then the failure was due to an excessive gap when it was glued. The epoxy is a great idea, but if the ends continue to dry and shrink, a new crack will form to relieve the attempted. Again guessing, the stress has done its job and if you drill a tiny hole at the end of the crack, it should not go any further (normally, but again never assume )! Yes, it really was possible to operate GEOS on a stock C64 with one 1541 disk drive, but let s. deskTop - the graphical interface and operating system kernal. Some kind of glue that does fill gaps is best. Then simply re-clamp with a bar clamp or clamps lightly using wood shims to protect outside edge. Sometimes if the crack does not want to close with the clamps simply cut a shim with the. From Gene Wengert, forum technical advisor: The cracks are due to the dry environment causing the ends to shrink, while the rest of the table remains full size. The cracks will potentially grow and will not be stopped by drilling a hole. Jump to content.